Saturday 24 January 2009

tubing tales











I have only just recovered from the aches and bruises I sustained whilst tubing (floating in a huge inflated tractor innertube) down the river in Vang Viene, northern Laos. The scenery was glorious - families washing and playing on the river bed, goats gamboling on the sides of the dramatic mountains, lush vegetation at every twist and turn of the winding river. What a contrast to the party atmoshere I had just left behind where young backpackers flock - it has been likened to Ibiza. They congregate in bars, shoddily built at the side of the river, get as high as possible on a cocktail of local grog, buckets (sandcastle buckets filled with spirits) and Lao beer, then risk their limbs (and lives) by throwing themselves into the river from rickety rope swings.

Of course I couldn't help but join in, although I remained sober as I didn't want to return home in a body bag. Apparently a few people die each year from this crazy pastime. I imagine those that meet their maker on this beautiful stretch of river do so after too much liqour. It has to be said it is amazing fun. Yet again I was reminded of the knicker-wetting fairground rides I enjoyed as a young girl. This time it was like the rapids at Alton Towers, with a few deadly rope swings for good measure, some as high as 15 feet.

I wonder if many tubers appreciate the setting in which this traveller funfair is set. One guy I chatted to as we floated peacefully down the river seemed more eager to get to the next bar than soak in the stunning setting surrounding him. I'm all for a bit of fun but I found Vang Viene a bit too much like Benidorm. The beauty was spoilt by tacky wall-to-wall bars and restaurants showing repeat episodes of Friends and serving substandard Western fayre.

The Organic farm was far more my cup of tea. I woke every morning to the sound of goats, which I helped feed. My view was of stunning mountains, mulberry tress and numerous other trees bearing exotic fruits such as papaya. It was so peaceful, a welcome break from Joey and the gang.

The photos at the top are of my friend Jess and me in the opal waters at the waterfall on the outskirts of Lunag Prabang, the beautiful royal city. My next stop is Luang Namtha (it will take me at least ten hours by local bus tonight), where I am going kayaking and trekking to see remote hill tribes, then it's off to Thailand by slow boat which will take two days.

No comments: